What is shade?

• Partial shade versus full shade. Partial shade is defined as dappled sun all day long, or, dappled sun interrupted for up to 4 hours of either full sun or full shade.
• The kind of shade is critical. Is it high branched, light-penetrating deciduous type such as oaks and locust? Is it primarily evergreen, or heavily canopied deciduous like Norway maple? Note that Norway maple and other exotics typically are the first to leaf out and the last to drop their leaves.

Other site parameters:

• What type of trees are you dealing with in so far as their root systems. Are they surfaced rooted, such as hemlock, beech, and ash? Or are they relatively deep rooted such as oaks and hickories?
• Are there "microclimates" within the site. Proximity of buildings or structures such as walls; aspect of slope; soil type and drainage capability all play a significant role in shade garden success.

Tips for successful shade gardening:

• Utilize plants from the list "Low Maintenance Perennials" suitable for the shade. These plants have been selected to perform in direct competition with overstory trees and shrubs.
• Popular shade-loving perennials such as hostas and astilbes will not perform well without deep, moisture-retentive soil. One way of siting these demanding perennials in the shade garden is to create "pockets" near the trunks of the trees where there are fewer surface feeding roots. Pockets should be at least 8-12" deep and wide and amended with compost.
• Do not spread a thick layer of topsoil over the area for planting, as it will adversely affect the root systems of the trees in the area (oxygen infiltration as well as numerous other necessary physiological functions will be affected). I have seen instances where shade gardens have been created by "raising" the elevation of the beds by about 10+". Must use a fill that is primarily organic matter (compost, shredded leaf mulch) incorporated in a loose aggregate soil (primarily sand or gravel). The percentage of organic matter approached 2/3 by volume. Note that the tree roots quickly invaded this fill, necessitating periodic lifting (every few years) of all the perennials and removal of these invading surface roots. It is much better not to amend the existing soil structure, unless the soil is very heavy (clayey) and/or there are drainage problems.
• If possible, raise up the lower branching structure of individual trees. Have an arborist carefully thin out the canopy. Note that few perennials will thrive in full shade (dense or evergreen canopies). There are exceptions (many ferns, gingers, Solomon's seal, creeping lilyturf, bleeding hearts, etc), but most evolved in environments of dappled light.
• Start with small plants that will not require large planting holes. These will adapt much better to their growing conditions than their larger counterparts.
• Incorporate organic mater (leaf mulch is best, or a quality compost) at planting time, and blanket your shade garden with a yearly summer mulch.
• Fertilize minimally. A single application of a quality, low nitrogen organic fertilizer in the spring is all that is needed. Supplemental "feedings" utilizing biostimulants is also advisable. Avoid pesticides for insect and disease control. Utilize a biorational approach to pest management.
• Monitor the pH of the soil annually. Most of the woodland plants perform best in slightly acid soils, around pH 6.0-6.5. Soil types and tree species will influence the soil acidity.
• Design your perennials for season-long bloom. As most of the shade-adapted perennials are spring bloomers, incorporate mid-season and late-season plants in your design. Plan to introduce into your plantings summer and fall blooming bulbs; biennials such as foxgloves and forget-me-nots; perennials such as yellow waxbells, black snakeroot, toad-lilies, corydalis, fringed bleeding hearts, and gentians; utilize foliage plants such as Rodger's flower and ferns; plant perennials that have ornamental fruits or seeds such as arums, Jack-in-the-pulpit, baneberries, aralias, blue cohosh, and false and true Solomon's seals, and anemones.
• If planting woody plants in the shade garden, utilize bareroot stock inoculated with mycohrizzal fungi in a slurry of hydrogel. Do not amend the soil and start with a smaller grade of stock, which will better adapt to the growing conditions (i.e. optimum root-to-shoot ratio).